Restaurant Review: The Cherry Tree

Is The Cherry Tree the pick of the SE22 pub lunch bunch?

It’s a bit of an all-change in the SE22 pub grub sector at the moment. No sooner has The Bishop reopened* after its refurb than the East Dulwich Tavern looks like it has been gutted. Let’s hope its loyal customers aren’t when they see what changes are afoot. There’s been quite a bit of “if it ain’t broke what are they trying to fix?” grumbling on the East Dulwich Forum. I look forward to the reopening and the response.

So while it is closed can someone else who shows live football snatch away some of the EDT’s followers. And will they return? Could temporarily shutting up shop be the proverbial own goal? I’ve previously tried The Bishop which I enjoyed, but, as someone pointed out, the vibe is a bit departure lounge these days. So this Sunday, with Spurs taking on Manchester United in what felt like a veritable, if unwanted, relegation scrap, I took on The Cherry Tree on Grove Vale.

The large pub has a decent outside space for when the weather hots up and plenty of TV screens and sofas and comfy areas. It seems very popular with impossibly young parents with prams (don’t mention Amandaland) as well as old geezers, and there is space for both. It has been through a number of incarnations in recent years, with changes of staff, chef and even name. I shall once again refer you to the venerable East Dulwich Forum if you want the back story. I’m here to review this Sunday’s food.

I’m still trying to stick to a healthy diet so while the roasts looked piled high and pretty I went for healthier options. I was all set to go for three starters – hummus and soup, both with sourdough, and King prawn scampi, when at the last moment my nerve did a swerve and I opted for two starters and a main of wild mushroom risotto (£15). What. Was. I. Thinking? Was I in an episode of Man v Food the Vegetarian Iteration?

While I felt I’d over-ordered I had a few things going for me. My waiter said I’d be welcome to take a doggy bag home, although the soup might be an issue. And secondly, talking of doggies, I had mine with me, and decided to take him walkies during half-time and between courses. A quick run around Goose Green would pep up my appetite, readying me for the risotto.

The two starters arrived together. The heritage squash soup (£5.50) was thick, full of flavour and piping hot. The sourdough for dipping was accompanied by a dollop of creamy butter. Not vegan I know, but you have to indulge yourself occasionally. Particularly as a Spurs supporter.

The lemon and parsley hummus (£5) was maybe not quite what I was hoping for. It came already spread on the sourdough, whereas I like to dip into it myself. According to the menu, the sourdough was toasted. While the bread was warm it lacked the crispness and and crunch and let’d be honest, the downright burnt edges you’d expect from toast.

On the plus side this meant there was no waste. I think it was food critic Giles Coren that wrote that one must never fill up on bread at the start of a meal. Too often I’ve had so much hummus (or taramasalata) to get through I’ve ordered extra bread and then was bursting before my main course. This ready-made method meant there was no waste. It did look a little like a 1970s Toast Topper** though.

So, half-time in the meal, half-time in the football with Spurs 1:0 up. A quick walk around Goose Green, clean the mud off my shoes outside then back for more footie, more food. And, luckily, while the pub was packed, my small table with neat vintage chairs was still there for me.

My partner often makes a superb risotto with leftover chicken so The Cherry Tree had a challenge on their hands. And I have to say they rose to the occasion. My waiter, noting my half-hearted vegan tendencies, thoughtfully asked me if I wanted parmesan on it before it was served. I’m sorry vegans. I thought, I’ve almost done my 10,000 steps today, a little bit of cheese isn’t going to kill me. Or a cow.

The risotto was pretty much cooked to perfection. The rice was just the right amount of nutty, the mushrooms had been prepped properly. It had a creamy texture and taste and was seasoned just how I like it, with a kick of pepper.

This is the sort of meal that…well, I’m among friends here aren’t I? If I was having it at home I’d lick the pattern off the plate. In public I wouldn’t dream of doing this. I did consider ordering more bread to mop up what I couldn’t get onto my spoon but decided that would’ve been a slice of sourdough too far. Definitely no doggy bag needed.

My only real disappointment? Spurs didn’t extend their lead and the last 15 minutes of the match were every bit as tense as you’d expect a Spurs game to be these days. As for the food though, in the battle of the East Dulwich pubs the Cherry Tree is the winner. So far.

The Cherry Tree, 31-33 Grove Vale, London SE22 8EQ

All meals paid for and identity not revealed before or after.

*The curse of Eats Dulwich - shortly after this review was published The Bishop announced on Instagram: “The Bishop will be closed for a while today whilst some repairs take place - we will keep you informed of when we will re open.”

**Can you believe you can still buy Toast Toppers?