Restaurant Review: Watson's General Telegraph

Midweek dinner? Easy As Pie

I don't drink beer. Never have done. There, I've said it. But I like pubs. I like the conviviality and vibe of a good pub. So I go to pubs quite often. And in recent years pubs have often had to expand their repertoire to include food to draw punters in. So pubs are now perfect for me. A nice atmosphere and an easy way to grab a bite. No beer, thank you.

Last week I was asking online about best pub lunches and Watson's General Telegraph was mentioned. I know this pub pretty well. It used to be the Forest Hill Tavern if memory serves, but a few years ago it had a radical makeover, hence the new name. Fire pits and lots of seating outside. Roomy and comfortable inside.

There are around 500 pubs called the King's Arms in the UK at the last count but according to Google only one Watson's General Telegraph. I'm assuming the name connects with some past electrical connection in the area, but while the website boasts about its craft beer, live sports and bang bang burger BBQ menu launching later this month it doesn't shed much light on the name.

Anyway, we'd been to the East Dulwich Picturehouse (Black Bag - avoid) and fancied a quick bite in a dog-friendly place so picked up the pooch and popped over to WGT. It was a midweek but the place was pretty busy, which was a nice sign. I should imagine that the beer is more expensive than in a Wetherspoon but as I don't go near the stuff (or Wetherspoon) I can’t comment.

We sat down close to the bar and picked up a menu. I'd like to have tried a roast lunch but this was "Pie Season". Although I'm pretty sure it was also pie season when we popped in a couple of months ago. My indecisive companion was torn between half a herb-fed, free-range slow-roasted rotisserie chicken and the porchetta and after wrestling over the porky temptation while empires rose and fell went for the chicken (£15).

I shouldn't mock her dithering as I was equally torn. There were vegan burgers among the bang bang beef patties and a mushroom pie, but, what the heck, I fancied a leek and tarragon chicken pie. One £18.50 chicken pie is not going to kill me is it? Particularly as I chose vegan mash over chips which I'd have much rather had (and my partner would have happily shared as she only had a salad with her chicken).

The food was ordered and paid for at the bar. Not Ritz-style silver service admittedly, but it's an efficient way of doing things and it means no lingering at the end waiting for the bill. The only trouble was the bar was quite busy with drinkers, but it was all handled with good grace and we also picked up some free dog treats from a jar. He devoured a handful before we noticed how hard they were and thought maybe he's eaten some plastic drink tokens by mistake. He hadn't, they were vegan snacks which are supposed to be good for canine teeth.

Pub food on a midweek night that is served until 10pm has to be a good thing but it is also an enigma. What is pre-prepared? How long does it take to slow roast half a chicken? Does the chef wear a big white hat? Do those big white hats have a special name? I've got no issues though when the food is good and the food in Watson's by and large hit the spot.

The half of chicken was more than enough for one person. We shared it and there was still a leg to take home. The salad was also and zesty although we had to ask for the pickled cabbage which was on the menu but not on the plate. My partner was still gazing enviously at somebody by the window devouring their porchetta though, so maybe a return visit is on the cards.

My pie was also on point. Whether it was straight out of the microwave or the oven it was piping hot, the crust giving way to a tasty chicken filling with a strong whiff of tarragon. The vegan mash was nicely presented though I'd have rather had chips even if they came thrown at me in a mini-metal bucket.

The kale, however, was a little disappointing. A leafy vegetable like this is not the easiest to serve. It can easily be overcooked and damp, this looked like it had barely hovered over a pan of boiling water. And there was a lot of it too. But even undercooked it's still very good for me so I tucked in.

It really depends what you want from a meal. It saved toiling over a stove, it wasn't expensive (around £45 with a crisp glass of chilled Picpoul) and our dog got an extra bit of walkies. They do show football but sadly weren't showing the Europa League so I had to follow a rare Spurs win on my phone, All in all and apart from the film, it was a case of winner, winner, Wednesday night dinner.

Watson's General Telegraph, 108 Forest Hill Road, SE22 0RS

All meals paid for and identity not revealed before or after.