Restaurant Review: Persepolis

Exciting times in the strange world of bright yellow, vegetarian, Middle Eastern cornershop dining.

As the title says, exciting times. The word on the street, Peckham High Street that is, is that Persepolis is expanding. This original outpost is not moving – cue huge sighs of relief from the devoted locals – but a second outpost is planned at 481 Lordship Lane, which has previously been the Dulwich Beer Dispensary as well as a tapas restaurant. And presumably at one point it was also a chemist as it was, a long long time ago, a restaurant called Le Pharmacie. The plan is to open in early autumn***see very exciting update below!

So I thought it was about time I visited the original branch, described on their website as “a strange world of bright yellow, vegetarian, Middle Eastern cornershop dining.” I’ve driven past Persepolis more times than I can count. I’m old enough to remember the ACE cinema that was a few doors along, back when the Peckham Plex was a Sainsbury’s. In fact I even signed on round the corner in Bellenden Road. It’s a Job Centre now.

Persepolis certainly oozes character. It was originally a quirky deli shop selling all manner of Persian foodstuffs and much more, but then the quirkier restaurant “sort of happened” says their website, because they wanted to try out their recipes. I was also particularly attracted because I saw that they now had a roof terrace. Perfect for a summer’s evening, on one side making me nostalgic with a view of the Job Centre (no, I’m not going to talk about looking down on the unemployed).

As for the food, how can you refuse the Persepolis Feasting Menu, which, at £30 per head, is exactly what it says on the door – “insanely cheap”. It also meant that we didn’t have to struggle through the menu, all we had to do was sit back and let the food start coming. And coming. And coming.

Starter was a soup. Hot and spicy chickpea I think, with crisp bread to dip into it. I thought the bowls were small but then I had no idea what we had in store. We were still casually toying with them when a huge plate arrived.

There was pretty much everything you could dream of on the next course. From aubergine and spicy tomato and beans and pickled peppers to their own special brand of houmous. Apparently they make at least 26 types of houmous and I bet they are all as good as this. Nothing at all like the Sainsbury’s version which taste more like beige grout by comparison. (drinks were pomegranate juice and cherry juice if you were wondering)

It was at this point that they also brought over the moussaka: lentils, stacked aubergines & potato in a white sauce.. Not something I normally associate with Persian cuisine but I wasn’t complaining. I thought I’d better point out to the staff that although we had sat at a table with four seats there were only two of us. Our plea for them to hold back on the food fell on deaf ears...

But at least there were only two stuffed peppers to go along with the two stuffed diners, a bright yellow one and a red one, scalped so that we could see the fragrant rice filling. I’m all for doggy bags, but this might be the first time I’ve requested one – sorry, two – during a meal rather than at the end.

Oh, and did I mention the bread. Fresh and warm straight from the tanour oven. And a plate of rice, pulao I think, which came with a triptych of salads and pickles. Most of it went in the doggy bag I’m afraid. That was tomorrow’s lunch sorted.

We had to save room for the dessert which wasn’t just delicious, it was a work of art. Sliced pears provided a based for a creamy sandwich cake, Turkish delight, small deep fried dough balls, dates, vanilla ice cream, candy floss, sweet and sticky baclava and, what’s that? A Jammy Dodger lurking under this food mountain?

Isn’t there a story about Persian rugs having to have a fault sewn into them because only Allah can create something perfect? I guess that Jammy Dodger was the culinary equivalent. Although it didn’t stop me from eating it.

So that was our Persepolis experience. Insanely cheap as they promised, but also consistently surprising. This really is a truly exquisite one-off experience like no other. Let’s hope that they can repeat this one-off a second time in East Dulwich.

Persepolis, 28-30 Peckham High Street, London, SE15 5DT

***following publication of this review we have found out that the offshoot is full steam ahead but there is a lot to do as the premises have been empty for two years. It will be called Simorgh. Follow their progress on instagram here.