Restaurant Review: Evi's

No need to beware of these Greeks bearing delicious food

For as long as I can remember I’ve had a newspaper cutting above my desk of a couple of shabby old Greek men drinking strong coffee outside a cafe. It’s how I imagine I’ll spend my retirement. On a sun-kissed Mediterranean island doing absolutely sod all except drink coffee and eat.

I’ve always had a penchant for British restaurants that create this vibe. Vineyard in Camberwell was my go-to on a sunny evening for many years. Evi’s, however, isn’t quite like this though. It’s much classier and cooler and the only old man in there drinking coffee was me.

And you certainly can’t fault the food. As I’ve mentioned previously I’m supposed to be on a healthy diet (but then aren’t we all?). I’ve been told a Mediterranean diet is a particularly good one. Although I presume they don’t include kebabs at midnight in that suggestion. But I thought that a Greek restaurant would give me the chance of a healthy blow-out. And if it didn’t at least I’d die a happy man.

Also Evi’s is in a spot on North Cross Road that is close to my heart. It was previously the location of the Blue Mountain cafe, which three decades ago was the first sign of SE22’s gentrification. The shiny azure Blue Mountain mosaic can still be seen clearly on the pavement outside.

The only snag was that Evi’s was busy. We wanted a late night meal but the only table available was close to the door early in the evening. No problem, we grabbed it and watched group after group of beautiful young people entering and quickly filling the restaurant up.

And one taste of the food and you can see why. Each dish was a winner. No massive portions but we easily ordered enough to fill us up, starting with the obligatory grilled pita bread (£3.50) and Kalamata olives (£4). Yes, I know they sell Kalamata olives for less than half the price in the Co-op down the road, but trust me, they just don’t taste the same when they aren’t speared by a cocktail stick in Evi’s.

I’d usually go straight for the taramasalata, but we tried something different here. The Melitzanosalata (£7.50) is a roasted aubergine dip including pomegranate and walnuts. Taramasalata has now become my second favourite Greek dip.

I’m not a big steak eater these days but how could I resist their Mosharisia Brizola Onglet steak (£15), which came in delicious thin slices with an olive and herb relish? A side serving of fries (£6) was reluctantly shared. I could easily have eaten them all myself. And had a second helping.

A local, well, local to Greece, Nissos lager (£6) helped things slip down nicely. As I looked around the bustling restaurant that was full now there was nowhere I would rather be. It was a lot smarter than the picture above my desk but felt just right. If only East Dulwich was as warm as Athens…

In fact it might have been the drink talking, but I decided that Evi’s is my new go-to Greek in south London. Sorry Vineyard, you had me for thirty years, it’s time to move on.

Evi’s, 18 North Cross Road, East Dulwich, SE22 9EU.

Prices quoted come from their website.